Sydney in spring — a feast.

An Uber driver drops me off at a cul-de-sac in Redfern, an inner-city suburb of Sydney. But there’s no sign of Mjolner, a modern Scandinavian restaurant where I’ve come to warm my bones with a hot meal and stiff drinks on this chilly winter’s eve. “Where exactly is it?” I ask the driver.

“It’s supposed to be on this corner,” he says.

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